By Greg Murphy
Chandlee Harrell and I stepped back into Yosemite free climbing history and climbed the appropriately-named "Crack of Doom" two weekends ago. When it was first freed by Chuck Pratt in 1961 it was something of a physical and psychological breakthrough. 38 years of improved gear, better technique, and climbing progress have not tamed this route one iota. The approach is not for the faint hearted since access is no longer possible from the river (construction). It involves hiking down from the top and then back up the other side. The crux may well be starting the route because you can look up the entire chasm and see that for about 90% of the 4 pitch route you won't be able to get any gear in. I seriously considered hiking back to the car. Pitch 1 was no problem except for the human bones. Pitch 2 was the psychological crux involving a full pitch of insecure bombay chimneying with nothing but token gear. I really liked looking down on the belay 80 feet below me with nothing but a huge loop of slack between me and Chan. It is certainly the hardest 5.8 in Yosemite and perhaps the world although the 5.7 "safety valve" pitch on the Lost Arrow Chimney is much harder and scarier. Pitch 3 and 4 were a blur because I was getting the flu and there was so much dirt in my eyes. After completing the Crack of Doom we wandered up by various disconnected routes to the top of Elephant Rock. It took most of the day but we proudly made it back to the car by dark. Gear includes 2 shoes (a left AND a right), a chalk bag and 1 No. 16 Camalot. A humbling yet stellar experience. Plans are being made to do the companion route "Crack of Despair" which is even burlier. The long term goal is to do the Elephant Rock tour of pain (Trundling Juan, Plumb Line, Reality Check, etc.). We'll keep you posted on this one. (weekender tip: do not wear white dress shirts to work on Monday after wide crack climbing and certainly not on your first day of work at a new job)
Greg